Book your bike service now. We are delighted to announce that the workshop will be reopening from the 8th of June. We are operating an appointment only service. There are no walk-in facilities at the workshop and appointments must be booked in advance. To maintain social distancing and help prevent the spread of Covid-19, there will be FREE collect and drop off service for customer in Cockermouth.
Bookings can be made by calling 07447 642513.
At the beginning of the current pandemic we took the decision to close the workshop. This was to help prevent the spread of Covid-19. The decision has now been taken that it is safe to open on a limited basis only. Initially this will be for existing customers.
Assessing wear is a simple matter. A chainring needs to maintain a healthy profile to its teeth. Those that become narrowed, flattened, bent over, or curved in the opposite direction of the chain travel, can become ineffective. Slippage, or the sudden unshipping of a chain, could have dire consequences.
The photograph above contrasts the ‘shark-fin-tooth‘ profile of a worn chainring against that of a new ring. This chainring should have been replaced a while ago. The chain wasn’t in much better condition.
A worn chain will massively accelerate wear on your bike’s components, especially those made of softer alloy. It’s worth remembering that a new chain replaced early is a lot cheaper that replacing a chainset and or cassette. If you cannot do it yourself just ask at your local bike repair shop.
A well maintained Trek xcaliber 9 with a worn out chain and front chainring.
Being made of steel, There was very little wear to the rear cassette, however the chain and alloy front chainring were very worn.
So it’s a quiet time at work and I like to be kept busy. What better way than to build a DIY e-recumbent bike! A while ago I purchased a 20″ hub motor wheel for my dirt-surfer and whilst that was great fun, it wasn’t exactly practical. I also had a fibre glass recumbent seat, which I acquire many years ago and hadn’t gotten around to using. So what better than making an electric recumbent bike.
I wanted something as simple as Possible to make, preferably without the need for welding. After a bit of searching I settled on a front wheel drive short wheel base recumbent. The base frame is a second hand Raleigh Evo 6 folding bike and the front boom is the rear triangle from an old scrap MTB.
The Evo front forks were steel and had to be spread wider to accommodate the 6 speed hub. The MTB rear triangle just fits over the existing fork dropouts, allowing the rear mech to attach as normal.
Seat brackets and the front boom to handlebar bracket have been 3D printed. Currently made out of ABS these will eventually be printed with carbon fibre reinforced nylon for strength.
The seat mount designs seem fine and very strong, however the front boom bracket needs redesigned to make it stronger. It also need printed in a different orientation so the print layers align better with the stresses. As you can see, this version split along the layers when tightening the bolts.
Still to do… attach new handle bars; wire up the electronics; fit the cranks and brakes. So watch this space! ?
I recently had a bike in the shop with problem shifting gears. As part of any job when a bike comes in I give it a quick safety check. I found that the rear brake blocks, as well as being dangerously worn, had also been installed backwards.
Shimano and other manufacturers produce brake blocks with removable brake pad inserts. One end of the block is closed and one end open. A worn old pad can be slid out and a fresh one inserted. The pad is held in place with a grub screw.
The thing is these blocks have to be installed so the closed end is facing forward in the direction of travel. If the blocks are fitted backwards then the only thing holding the pads in place is a tiny grub screw! Guaranteed these would fail when you most want to stop – at best you could be badly injured and at worst…
A customer wanted a new saddle put on their bike. Whilst the saddle was new, they had had it for so long the glue holding the upper cover disintegrated leaving it flapping at the edges. After adding a gorilla glue and the judicious use of bulldog clips it should be good as new! #gorillaglue
It’s been a busy month at Qwink. Our ethos is low volume high quality. If a bike shop is handling a large volume of bikes it’s harder to offer a high quality bespoke service and keep everyone satisfied. We deliberately keep our volume low so that every bike gets special treatment and our full attention.
We understand that your bike is your pride and joy and we aim to make your bike “like new”. Whether it’s a basic safety service or a full strip down and rebuild – you’ll get great service.
Thanks to everyone who has supported Qwink. Please let your friends and family know about our services.
The last few bike in the workshop have all had wheel problems. Two of the bike urgently needed new wheels and one was at the limit.
So how do you know when to replace your wheels? Well it’s pretty easy as your rims have a wear indicator. When the indicator becomes worn it’s time to think about new rims.
The images show two of the rim wear indicators – either a continuous indent in the rim around the full circumference or a tiny dot indented on the rim. When either of these becomes worn away it’s time to replace those rims.
Both of the badly worn rims I had in the workshop were well past the wear indicator. The wear was so bad that the rim had become dished instead of flat!
When things get to this point it becomes very unsafe. A catastrophic failure of the rim could be imminent – if this happens then there is a real possibility of serious and possibly life threatening injury!
Imagine a rim collapsing at 40mph on a steep downhill? Not good.
So the moral of this story is, check your rims for wear. If they are worn get them sorted earlier rather than later!
Another one finished and looking like new. Amazing what a little TLC can do. Grease headset, degrease all components and refit to correct torque settings, index gears and fit new pedals. Gave the frame a good clean to remove a lot of road tar – good as new!
Just arrived in the workshop. This one will need a new headset and chain as a minimum. Chain always wears faster than the chainrings, but a worn chain will accelerate the wear on those components. When the chain is replaced it sometimes highlights problems elsewhere leading to more cost. When a chain only costs a few pounds it is a lot cheaper than replacing chainrings and cassettes!